流变剂
What is Gilugel®
Gilugel® is a lipogel which lends both stability and viscosity to cosmetic emulsions. Gilugel® is composed of 20% Aluminium-Magnesium-Hydroxide-Stearate, as the active material, which is based on the inorganic pharmaceutical active, Hydrotalcite. The remaining 80% consists of specific oils or ester, in which the active material is gelled.
Gilugel® takes on the colour and odour of the oil or ester used for gelling. Gilugel® is free from preservatives, stabilisers and components of animal origin.
The active component Aluminum-Magnesium-Hydroxide-Stearate is listed in „Annex 2 of BDHI Standard Certified Natural and Organic Cosmetics (Positive List)“.
Application Areas and Benefit
Stability, exellent skin feel, increased water content in W/O emulsions
Thermostability, increased SPF, water resistance
Homogeneous pigment distribtion
Protective film formation, resistant to aqueous and oily media
让棒状产品和面霜质地更加粘稠
How Gilugel® works
Gilugel® is a functional additive which, as a result of the patented gelling agent, Aluminium-Magnesium-Hydroxide-Stearate, improves the stability and rheological characteristics of emulsions. 根据应用领域,额外的产品效益可以通过使用特定的 Gilugel® 类型来实现。
使用 Gilugel® 可以避免含蜡乳液的稳定性,让配方设计师能充分利用油包水 (W/O) 配方的护肤品优势。
Skin Feeling
不含蜡,再加上 Gilugel® 的触变特性,让质地非常轻薄的 W/O 乳液(含有 80% 以上的水)具有优异的皮肤感官特性。
Pigment Distribution
在含有 TiO2、ZnO 或氧化铁色素的制剂中,Gilugel® 会在颗粒表面形成一层涂层,从而改善颜料分散和预防再凝结,即使在最终产品的存储中也是如此。This means that in sun care emulsions, a reduction in sun protection factor (SPF) over time is avoided and a favourable relationship is achieved between the level of pigments applied and the resulting SPF.
Water Resistance
测试表明,含有 Gilugel® 的防晒配方即使在游泳 3 小时后也能保持其 SPF 值等级的防晒力。This water resistance can be attributed to the film forming characteristics of Gilugel® on the skin.
Thermostability
Gilugel® 为产品提供高热稳定性。In sun care products, for example, changes in viscosity are minimal even at extreme temperatures.
图 1 显示了含有 Gilugel® (12-1) 的防晒产品与含有微晶蜡 (12-4) 的相应产品和商业产品的粘度变化。含有 Gilugel® 的产品在高温和低温下都是最稳定的。
Antiperspirants
The efficacy of anhydrous antiperspirant products can be negatively affected by the presence of high levels of hydrophobic waxes. The thickening properties of Gilugel® allow wax levels to be reduced to a minimum.